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Anagni, Italy: The Cathedral of San Magno

About the Cathedral of San Magno in Anagni, Italy:

The historic hilltop town of Anagni in Lazio, Italy has often called the “City of the Popes” for its role as a medieval papal residence—the Anagni Cathedral (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata) stands as a masterpiece of Romanesque and Gothic architecture.

While formally dedicated to the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the cathedral is linked to San Magno (Saint Magnus), Anagni’s patron saint.  Built between 1072 and 1104 under Bishop Pietro da Salerno, the cathedral was originally constructed in pure Romanesque style, possibly with Byzantine influences from Emperor Michael VII Doukas.

Over the centuries, it served as a key site for papal activities, hosting events like the canonization of Saint Bernard of Clairvaux in 1174 and Saint Clare of Assisi in 1255, as well as Pope Alexander III’s excommunication of Frederick Barbarossa in 1160.

The cathedral’s exterior is dominated by its sturdy Romanesque bell tower, a 12th-century addition that rises dramatically over Anagni’s medieval rooftops. Inside, a 1250 refurbishment introduced Gothic-Lombard elements, creating a light-filled nave with pointed arches and ribbed vaults. The floor is a stunning example of Cosmatesque mosaic work, crafted in 1231 by the Cosma family using recycled marble in intricate geometric patterns of black, white, and red porphyry.

A late-13th-century lunette above the main portal depicting the Madonna and Child flanked by Saints Magno and Secondina.  Over the high altar is a 1267 ciborium (canopy) by the Vassalletto workshop.  In the apse over the altar are 17th- and 19th-century frescoes, including apostles by Sassoferrato’s pupil Borgogna and a half-dome scene by the Gagliardi brothers.

A wooden triptych of the Savior in the right aisle.  Side altars honor martyrs such as Saints Secondina, Aurelia, Neomisia, and the Virgin Oliva, plus Bishop Pietro da Salerno, who was responsible for the construction of the Cathedral and crypt.

The Crypt of San Magno: A Hidden Gem of Medieval Art:

Most notably, the Cathedral contains the Crypt of San Magno: a subterranean chapel located beneath the Cathedral. This medieval site is famous for its stunning 13th-century frescoes that depict a wide range of religious, historical, and scientific scenes, leading it to be called the “Sistine Chapel of the Middle Ages”. The crypt was built between 1072 and 1104 and was intended to house sacred relics, including those of its patron saint, Saint Magnus.

The crypt’s low-ceilinged space, supported by 12 ancient Roman columns (possibly from a temple to Jupiter), creates an intimate, almost other-worldly atmosphere. Its walls are covered in vivid 12th- and 13th-century frescoes, attributed to followers of Pietro Cavallini, illustrating biblical narratives like the Creation, the life of Christ, and scenes from the Old Testament (e.g., the Tower of Babel and the Flood). Though some are faded or damaged, highlights include a central altar scene with Christ Pantocrator and the Madonna, overlooked by Saint Thomas and local bishops.

A narrow passageway leading to the frescoed Oratory of Saint Thomas Becket, connecting to Anagni’s Anglo-Norman ties.

The crypt’s Cosmatesque pavement mirrors the cathedral’s above, tying the spaces together. Tradition holds that San Magno’s relics rest here, guarded by the saint’s spirit, adding a layer of spiritual mystique.

Photography is allowed without flash  in the crypt to preserve the fragile frescoes.

Traveling to Anagni, Italy & The Cathedral of San Magno:

If possible, we encourage you to visit Anagni, especially if you happen to be in Rome.  Anagni is an easy day trip from Rome (about 1 hour by train to Anagni-Fiuggi station), and climbing to the town’s centro storico rewards with panoramic views and gelato stops amid its papal palaces.

Adjoining the cathedral is the Diocesan Museum, which houses medieval artifacts, liturgical objects, and a collection of ancient manuscripts, offering deeper insight into Anagni’s ecclesiastical heritage.

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