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Naples: Church of Saint Mary of the Souls in Purgatory (Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio)

The tragic history of Naples in the 17th century:

The 17th century was certainly a disastrous time for  the residents of Naples.  There was a second volcanic eruption of nearby Mount Vesuvius in 1631, along with a series of earthquakes and famines. Then, in 1656, the Black Death killed half of the city’s population.

Naples suffered from severe loss of lives and burying the dead presented a major obstacle. Many Catholics were too poor to pay for burial. Churches and cemeteries were overwhelmed, and the poor and homeless could not get proper Christian burials.

About the Church of Saint Mary of the Souls in Purgatory (Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio) in Naples:

To alleviate the suffering of the Neapolitans during this dark period, a group of wealthy noblemen formed a humanitarian society called Congrega di Purgatorio ad Arco.  They contributed to and built Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio (Saint Mary of the Souls of Purgatory), a little Baroque-style church in the heart of the city. They aimed to provide an adequate place for burying the dead, a holy place where grieving relatives could pray for their departed in Purgatory.

Crossing the threshold begins a real journey in the Neapolitan culture between art, faith, life, death. From the small and beautiful church of the ‘600, which preserves the precious marble and winged skull of Dionisio Lazzari, together with masterpieces by Massimo Stanzione, Luca Giordano and Andrea Vaccaro, we descend into the ancient and grandiose hypogeum (the underground church) that still hosts the fascinating worship aimed at anonymous human remains that become special intermediaries for invocations, prayers, requests for intercessions. A small museum set up in the elegant sacristy completes the itinerary.

Remembering the souls of the Purgatory was one of the most important prayer intentions and the whole decorative appearance of the Complex was conceived to remind visitors and faithful that the souls of the dead were waiting for a prayer to be freed from the flames of the Purgatory and to be accepted in Heaven. The façade, the decoration of the church and of the Sacristy, the liturgical paraments recall the theme of the Purgatory; the whole iconographic project was dedicated to the theme of death by 1600s works of art: the Saint Joseph Transit (1650-51) by Andrea Vaccaro, located in the third left chapel; the Death of Saint Alessio (1661), one of the first masterpieces by Luca Giordano, in the third right chapel.

Museum in Church of Saint Mary of the Souls in Purgatory (Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio)

There is  a  museum in the Complex, located in the sacristy of the Church and in the Oratory of the Immaculate and it preserves a collection of paintings and artifacts dating to the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.″Opera Pia″ Purgatorio ad Arco, a secular charity organization, owns and manages the museum complex of Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio.  The Opera Pia Purgatorio ad Arco has owned the complex since 1604. Progetto Museo association has been managing the museum since 2000, using the collaboration of young graduates mainly in art history.

A great variety of objects is exhibited in the museum – silvers, paintings, manuscripts – all made on the account of the Opera Pia. Particularly, among the beautiful 1600s and 1700s paintings, is remarkable a very high quality 1600s copy of the famous painting by Luis de Morales, representing the Virgin of Purity, whose original version is preserved in the convent of San Paolo Maggiore.

There are actually two churches here.  Through an opening in the floor of the upper church, descending a steep staircase, it is possible to reach a wide space, a real lower church, one of the most well known places in Naples where, still today, is alive the ritual of the worshipping of the poor souls. In the center of the church is located an anonymous tomb, surrounded by black chains and barely enlightened by electric lights. Along the walls small niches, altars and candles witness the old ritual that raised spontaneously in the 1600s. Through a small corridor it is possible to reach the burial ground of the church were the remains of Lucia, the young soul particularly loved by Neapolitan people, are preserved in a sophisticated and fascinating altar. The dimensions of the lower church are impressive and the choice to deliberately contrast the decorative richness of the upper church with the austerity of the lower space is clear.The underground church, accessible only with a guide, has several niches with altars, shrines, and letters preserved from the time of the cult of Veneration of the Dead. These relics in the hypogeum show how the people of Naples cared for the remains of abandoned bodies — specifically, the skull — and how it became an intense preoccupation of worshippers.

The museum in the sacristy is home to some fine works of art: paintings, masterpieces by Italian artists, and various objects such as vestments, silverware, and priceless manuscripts dating from the 16th to the 19th century.the association was founded in the 1990s by a group of female art historians who continue to participate in education at the museum today. “Both churches are still consecrated, but only the upper church is used for celebrating Mass. Currently, a Mass is celebrated on Monday afternoon, a day dedicated to prayer for the souls in Purgatory. Usually, on November 2, a Latin Mass is celebrated in the traditional rite.”

Traveling to Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio in Naples:

Santa Maria delle Anime church is in the heart of the ancient center of Naples, along via dei Tribunali, there is the Church of Santa Maria delle Anime in Purgatory in Arco, known to the Neapolitan people as the church “de ” e cape ‘e morte” (the head of dead).  Skulls and bronze crossbones distinguish the outside of the church, making an immediate connection between the living and the dead. The museum has two levels: an upper level with an upper church, a museum, and a lower church

Address:  Via dei Tribunali, 39, 80138 Napoli NA

Tel: +39  081 440438 / 3715831130

To book a tour, email the church.

Click here for the official website of the museum of the Church of Saint Mary of the Souls in Purgatory (Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio) in Naples.

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